Tiny clutch bags, conceptual knitwear and carbon neutrality – the ideas that fashion chooses to embrace each season aren’t always those you might expect. But thanks to a recent shift, no doubt spurred on by the “Greta Thunberg effect”, carbon – as well as the practice of offsetting it – has become a hot topic for many of the biggest names in the fashion industry. At New York fashion week in September, luxury fashion designer Gabriela Hearst staged fashion’s first carbon-neutral catwalk show. Hot on its heels, Gucci announced it would go carbon neutral with chief executive, Marco Bizzarri, stating that “the planet has gone too far”. Next up, luxury fashion conglomerate Kering, owner of big-name brands such as Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta, announced that its entire group would offset 2.4m tonnes of carbon dioxide in a bid to “become carbon-neutral within its own operations and across the entire supply … [Read more...] about Is carbon neutrality the silver bullet fashion has been hoping for?
Heidegger’s thoughts on authenticity, Camus’ writings on the nature of rebellion, 17th-century cartography and the stage wear of Elton John – the catwalk show that opened Milan fashion week did not follow a formula smacking of obvious commercial success. But this is Gucci, where the designer Alessandro Michele’s avant-garde approach to luxury has confounded the industry. The fashion house’s financial results, released this summer, showed a phenomenal 43.4% sales growth. Even more striking is that Gucci, whose catwalk set mapped the Roman site of Horace’s Villa and whose show notes touched on post-structuralism, is adored by a younger generation most fellow heritage brands struggle to connect with: half of all Gucci customers were born after 1980. Michele is the most successful fashion designer of this decade despite – or perhaps because of – not seeming particularly interested in clothes. In a 25-minute pre-show briefing for editors, held … [Read more...] about Gucci channels Elton John for its Milan fashion week show
Alessandro Michele has changed what the Gucci loafer means. At the beginning of 2015, before Michele’s promotion from accessories to the design hot seat, the shoe was an international symbol for smooth, establishment sophistication and a certain type of expensive-restaurant sex appeal. After two seasons of Michele’s Gucci, the loafer – backless and fur-soled for autumn, raised on a pearl-studded heel for spring – stands for surrealism, androgyny and an avant-garde kind of luxury. The reinvention of Gucci has been the fashion industry story of the year so far. A label that arguably stagnated under designer Frida Giannini, retreating from the sex-and-rock’n’roll image it had had under Tom Ford without finding a new direction, has invented an aesthetic – dubbed the glam Gucci geek, or the glitter geek – that is now setting the fashion agenda. As a result, Michele’s second major Gucci womenswear collection was the most high-stakes show … [Read more...] about Alessandro Michele brings Milan fashion week under Gucci’s heel
A coalition of 32 of the world’s largest fashion groups and brands has published a manifesto that details the practical objectives and targets it has set to minimise the industry’s impact on the climate, oceans and biodiversity. The Fashion Pact, which was released on Friday and will be presented at the G7 meeting in Biarritz, says it “will not reinvent the wheel, but create an overarching framework for action”, and will make its findings open source. It intends to build on the work of existing organisations such as the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, The United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) and Fashion For Good. Key points include a commitment to 100% renewable energy across own operations by 2030; pledges to eliminate micro-fibre pollution and develop biodiversity strategies, which may include wildlife-friendly approaches to agriculture, mining and forestry that promote the conservation of key species; and a recommendation to eliminate … [Read more...] about Fashion houses launch manifesto to improve green credentials
The chequered print often seen on the traditional Arab keffiyeh headdress is currently being deployed by luxury brands such as Cecilie Copenhagen, where the print features heavily as part of its autumn/winter collection, as well as fast fashion retailers Boohoo and Asos. There are concerns that its connections with the Palestinian struggle are being diluted and exploited. Omar Joseph Nasser-Khoury, a Palestinian fashion designer, says the keffiyeh symbolises “dispossession, systematic displacement, extrajudicial killings [and] oppression”. Its use by designers divorced from that context is, he says, irresponsible. “It’s almost disrespectful and it’s exploitative.” The apparent proliferation of keffiyeh-inspired designs comes at a time of increased debate about cultural appropriation. Practices such as wearing Native American-style headdresses at festivals have been re-examined, and Kim Kardashian’s line of shapewear recently had its name, … [Read more...] about The keffiyeh: symbol of Palestinian struggle falls victim to fashion
On Tuesday, children in Niagara, Canada, arrived up to 30 minutes late for class on the first day of the new academic year due to delayed school buses. The region’s head of student transportation services laid the blame not on traffic or lost lunchboxes, but parents taking back-to-school photos of children boarding their buses. “It’s a lot of parents and drivers greeting each other – but also the photo opportunities,” Lori Ziraldo told the Welland Tribune. Along with Halloween and the first day of the summer holidays, back to school has become a photo moment to share on social media. The phenomenon is bringing other countries in line with France, where la rentrée marks the end of a long August holiday. This week, the television presenter Holly Willoughby and the actors Jessica Alba and Busy Philipps all posted images on social media of their children on their first day back at school. In the US, the spectacle extends into the college years: last … [Read more...] about Back to school: how the new term is shaking up fashion